There's no "right" answer to this, everyone will have a different scene to photograph but there are a few geneneral points worth considering but should not be treated as rules.
The largest image pixel counts (bigger, generally better resolution images) are obtained if you only use the optical zoom range of the camera you are using.
The automatic image controls of the default camera Photo mode don't give you as much control as the Pro and Expert Raw modes.
The ultra-wide-angle has a 50MP sensor and no optical zoom. If you set the zoom beyond 0.6 you will get a smaller image than 50MP automatically cropped by the app. It's generally better to crop your prefered scene from the full frame in another app, Photos, Lightroom or similar. The 50MP camera has an extremely wide field of view and is well suited for broad scenes like landscapes.
The wide-angle 200MP has no optical zoom and the highest resolution images come from leaving the zoom at 1x. Otherwise you get the same cropping and lower resolution images as with all the cameras. It's worth treating the 200MP W camera like a SLR camera standard lens where you don't need magnification. Get close to your subject rather than use zoom. Crop preferred subject/scene later in another app. The 200MP W camera also has optical image stabilization. It can cause problems in some scenes but is generally an advantage when hand holding the phone.
The Telephoto is 50MP but the optical zoom range is 1x to 5x, it's worth staying within that range and doing your own cropping. I'd even say it's usually better at 1x zoom.
The super-telephoto is only 12MP and has an optical zoom range of 1x to 3x. At 1x zoom it has about twice the focal length of the 50MP telephoto but the ST has a quarter the resolution of the 50MP T camera so I rarely use the 12MP ST. 100x digital zoom is about the equivalent of a 1.2MP camera with 33x magnification and you lose a lot of detail for many scenes.
In general, I use either the 200MP W camera at 1x zoom or the 50MP T camera between 1x to 5x zoom only. If I can move myself to make the scene right I do (it's usually much easier for close subjects using the 200MP W camera than for any other). I do my own crop of a preferred scene from the best scene I get from the limits I use. This is because cropping from a high resolution image is usually still a higher resolution image than is obtained using the digital zoom beyond the camera optical range.
The EV control at a positive value can help brighten a dark subject in a bright scene. Or a negative EV can help with a bright subject in a dark scene.
Autofocus is usually better than manual but for some scenes with subjects covering a range of distances the multi-point autofocus can be useful. However, focus and exposure are usually easier by pressing on the preferred subject on the phone screen, sometimes press and hold on the subject to lock focus and exposure at the same point.
Using a low enough ISO to keep the shutter speed faster than a 50th of a second can avoid camera shake and reduce the appearance of "grain" in images. Basically smoother without blurring. Usually the auto setting is fine for ISO and shutter speed but sometimes you might want to make manual settings.
The flash is best for close, poorly lit subjects and is worth considering indoors but generally indoor lights in buildings are sufficient.
A lot of the "smart" features are a bit gimicky and I rarely use them. The Neutral Density (ND) filter and synthetic aperture can be useful for bright scenes.
It's worth using an online AI tool to get the specs of all the cameras, resolution, focal length, field of view, optical zoom range and aperture are worth knowing. I won't explain them here, use the same AI tool to learn how those camera properties and other terms I've used affect your frames.
