That's going to depend a lot on which of the cameras you use, what you are photographing and the available light. I would rarely use the high zoom picture within a frame mode, it has it's uses but handholding a camera at 100x zoom will have a lot of shake, it needs a tripod and mount which I have. However, I regularly manage to get nice mountainside shots at 2.5 miles range using 10x zoom and, I believe the 50MP camera where you can see relief and some structure on exposed rock, the plants are largely a varying shade of green for each type but I can see individual fallen trees at 2.5 miles. I often get nice balanced sky shots with nice detail of cumulus clouds forming as the air rises against the mountains, again 50MP camera at 10x zoom. All frames are downsampled to 12MP and that might cause problems like you describe. AFIK, you can't really capture 200MP frames from the 200MP camera. The best quality frames will usually be RAW format images using the EXPERT RAW mode, but it can be a chore to use if you are not familiar with the features and by default you get two frames, the RAW image and a lower quality compressed jpeg. The RAW frame is usually better quality. A lot of what it takes to get good results are common photography skills and you are probably going to have to learn about the effect of things like shutter speed, aperture, depth of field, field of view, balancing the subject versus the scene and more. It's well worth learning because the S25 Ultra camera has been good for some of my uses. It looks like my attachments probably didn't get uploaded There was a picture with the building it's about a quarter mile away and you can see the gaps between the blocks of the wall in front but the most distant ridge is about 2 miles away with individual trees visible. There was one of cumulus cloud forming with nice detail in the cloud. It shows the same ridge, both were actually taken through home windows. There was one of a cloudy mountainside that was taken outside. If the resolution was preserved I think it's the only raw frame and you can see relief and structure on the exposed rock plus individual fallen trees in the canyon at over 2 miles distance. None have been adjusted after they were taken.
It's hard to post the Mars pictures because they don't appear in the available pictures to attach even though they appear in the Photos app, putting them in an album doesn't help and drag and drop isn't supported. I'll work it out and post another reply but here are two Saturn pictures, the sun (through a proper solar filter) showing sunspots and Jupiter with all four Magellanic moons visible. The lens is a Canon RF800mm/F11 with a 2x teleconverter, so a 1600mm/F22 with 32x magnification but very low light. The biggest trouble shooting with my Canon EOS-R is that the planets are less than 1% of the frame so metering is useless and I have to guess exposures. Only the sun is properly exposed because it's full frame but all the planets are over exposed, though for the Jupiter shot, with care you can see the shadow on the left indicating they are lit from the right (whch was the case when the picture was taken). All of these were on a static tripod, Saturn on my EQ mount should be possible later this year. Most planet pictures are over-exposed because I have to guess the exposure and the Mars ones when I attach them are severely over-exposed giving the planet a halo, but the contrast on them has the same shape as the contrast on a high resolution picture of Mars. I'll try to work out how to make them part of the pictures the Samsung M app will allow me to select.
Here are two Mars shots, an original frame and a five frame stack with the dynamic range compressed at the dark end to remove the halo. Remember I know they are over-exposed but the contrast on the disk is the same shape as contrast on much better frames of Mars and doesn't change shape across 80 frames covering two hours of shooting so I'm confident it is surface relief. I expect to get better at judging exposure on my EQ mount with more use. These were my first shots using it. Canon EOR-R + RF800mm/F11 with a 2x teleconverter.
